Stockton borton



(No Model.)

S. BURTON.

TRIMMING AND SEWING MACHINE.

No. 263,650. Patented Aug. 29, 1882.

172002051 JfC/ah 5011270 N. Pcrzns Phchrljlhugnphan Wnhingian. n. c

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

STOCKTON BURTON, on PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA, ASSIGNOR TO THE w1LLcoX& GIBBS SEWING MACHINE COMPANY, OF NEW YO K, N. Y.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 263,650, dated August29, 1882.

' Application filed July 14, 1881. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, STOCKTON BQRTON, ofPhiladelphia, in the State of Pennsylvania, have invented a new anduseful Improvement 5 in Combined Trimming and Sewing Machines, whichimprovement is fully set forth in the following specification.

This invention relates more particularly to trimmers for overseamsewing-machines for trimming the work preparatory to overseaming, and.has for its object to prevent the trimmed-01f strip from interferingwith the overseaming by guiding said strip to one side, and also toenable said strip to be carried oft 1 below the cloth-plate.

The invention consists, first, in the combination, withoverseam-stitching mechanism, of a trimmer arranged to act in advance ofsaid mechanism, and an improved shield or guide extending in front andalongside of the overseamiug device for diverting the trimmed-oft stripaway from the overscaming mechanism; and, secondly, in the combination,with a sewin g-machine trimmer, of a cloth or throat plate to allow thetrimmed-off portion or strip to pass below the cloth-plate.

The shield or guide referred to may be formed in different ways-as, forexample, by an upright strip attached to the cloth or throat plate, orby the edge of the opening in said plate. The opening in the, cloth orthroat plate is attended with special advantages over guides or shieldson the cloth or throat plate, in that it furnishes no obstruction on thesurface, besides allowing the trimmed-off strip to take its naturalcburse downward.

The trimming mechanism may be of any suitable construction adapted tooperate on the fabric for which it is'designed. A vibratory orreciprocating knife working through a slot in the cloth-plate, aknifefixed t the cloth-plate or presser-foot, a rotary disk-knifeturning on a concentric or on an eccentric axis, or a pair of rotaryshears could be used; but preferably a pair of shears consisting of avibratory and a stationary cutter or blade is employed.

The accompanying drawings, which form a part of this specification,represent a machine 50 constructed in accordance with the invention,

die to form the stitches;

and comprising a shear-trimmer with vibratory cutter, in combinationwith an American button-hole oversea'ming and sewing machine. The latterbeing of ordinary construction,only

so much of it is represented as is necessary to '5 5 show theapplication of the trimmer.

Figure 1 is a plan view, partly in horizontal section; Fig. 2, avertical section in the plane of the feed movement; Fig. 3, a verticalsection in a plane transverse to that of the feed movement, and Fig. ata plan of an extra throatplate. r

A is the cloth-plate of the machine; B, the presser-foot; G, the needle;D E, overseaming devices operating in conjunction with the me 6;

F, a vibratory cutting-blade; G, a shield or guide for diverting thetrimmed-oft strip from the path of the dc vice D, and H the main shaftof the machine.

The cloth-plate A, as shown, is provided with a detachable throat-plate,A. The throatplate is pierced at a for the passage of the needle, at bfor the passage of the device D, and at c it is provided with anopeningfor the passage of the end of the blade F. The said blade has itscutting-edge formedby grinding on one edge, like an ordinaryscissors-blade, and is fixed with the cutting-edge in an-inclinedposition'to the outer or free end of a bar, 0, which is pivoted to astandard, f, near the front edge of the cloth-plate. The edge of theblade F works in contact with the square edge 9 of the opening a, saidedge serving as a stationary cutting-edge for the edge of blade F to actagainst. A screw, h, engaging in a 8 threaded hole in the standard f,bears at its point against the vibratory bar 0, and serves to adjust thepressure of the cutter F against the stationary cutting-edge g, and tokeep the two edges in contact, notwithstandingthe wear of the blades.The blade F and opening 0 are arranged a sufficient distance to one sideof the line of stitching to leave a margin of the proper width. Asshown, a continuation of either of the cutting-edges. would pass just 5within the path of the overseaming device D, and between it and the pathof the needle 0. This is considered the best arrangement; but

it is obvious that there may be considerable latitude in this respect,provided a sufficient roo margin is left to secure a strong seam and theoverseaming devices are allowed to operate properly. The blade F isoperated by an eccentric on the main shaft through the medium of a link,k,jointed at its'upper end to the bar 0. The shield or guide G, as shownin Figs. 1, 2, and 3, is formed of a curved piece of metal attached inan upright position, by soldering or otherwise, to the cloth or throatplate of the machine, with its end extending in front of the blade F,between it and the hole I), through which the device D works. Asrepresented in Fig. 4,it is formed by the edge of the opening 0 in thethroat-plate, which is enlarged to allow the trimmed-01f strip to passdownward under the plate, this being its natural direction. It isobvious that an upright strip could be placed around the opening in thethroatplate A. The presser-foot B is cut away at the front to the rightof the needle-hole to allow the cutter F to operate in close proximityto the needle. If desired, the blade or cutter F could be made to workin a slot in the presser-foot. I

The needle 0, the overseaming'devi'ces DE, and-the mechanism foroperating the same are of ordinary construction and need not bedescribed.

In operation, the layers offabric to be united are placed under thepresser-foot so that the edges extend under the cutter F, and themachine being started, the said blade trims off a strip that is divertedby the shield or guide G, and the goods are fed to the machine with theedges even and. parallel, in perfect condition for union by the sewingmechanism. The stitch is, formed in the ordinary manner. The needlecarries. a loop of the upper thread through the fabric. The device I),which is eye-pointed, passes through the loop, carrying with it a loopof the under thread. The underthread loop,'being carried above thethroatplate, is caught by the device E, which spreads it in the path ofthe needle, so that the latter passes through-it at its next descent.The device D returns. below the cloth-plate in position for taking a'newloop when thrown by the needle 0. Loops of the upper threadare thuslocked below by loops of the under thread, whichare themselves lockedabove by the succeeding loops of the upper thread. The tension and feedshould of course be suitably regulated, as well understood by thoseskilled insewing knit and other goods.

resented and described merely as a type of an overseaming-machine.

The invention is applicable generally to the uniting of two or morelayers of fabric by overseaming mechanism, and is not limited to anyparticular style of seam. It may be used with single-threadoverseaming-machines making an ovcrseam by means of a looper workingover the edge of the goods and carrying the needle-loop from belowaround the edge into the path of the needle, so as to be penetrated byit at its next descent; with zigzag-sewing machines that make anoverseam by having the needle descend alternately right and left of agiven line, and generally with overseaming-machines of everydescription.

As already pointed out, other styles of trimmer may be used instead of ashear-trimmer, and it is obvious that various modifications may be madein the construction of the sheartrimmers, if these are to be employed.

In zigzag-sewing machines in which the cloth-plate has a lateralmovement the trimmer should be attached thereto, so as to partake ofthat movement.

Having now fully described my said invention and the manner of carryingthe same into effect, I would observe, in conclusion, that-I donotclaim. herein thecombination of a trimming attachment with an overseamsewingmachine having in front of the overseaming device a horn'such ascommonly employed on the American button-hole machine--the improveddiverting-guide herein" described differing therefrom, and being moreefficient for the purposes of the present invention; but

What I do claimis- 1". The combination, with overseam-stitchingmechanism and a trimmer arranged to act in advance of said mechanism, ofthe improved 5 diverting shield or guide extending in front andalongside -'of' the overseaming device, substantially as described.

2. The combination, with a sewing-machine trimmer, of a throat or clothplate provided 100 with an opening to allow the trimmed-01f portion orstrip to pass below the plate, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed this specification in thepresence oftwo subscrib- 10 ing witnesses.

. STOCKTON BORTON.

Witnesses:

CHAS. H. W1LLcox,

5 5 The American button-hole machine is rep- 1 R. S. HAYWARD.

